Istanbul Food and Cuisine
The Ultimate Guide Uncovering the Best Kept Secrets for Foodies
Introduction to Istanbul’s Culinary Scene
Istanbul food is a rich and diverse tapestry, reflecting the city’s unique position bridging East and West. This geographical and cultural blend brings a variety of flavours to the table. In the western parts of Turkey, you’ll find a Mediterranean influence with olive oil-based dishes, while the eastern regions incorporate more spices, meats, and flavours akin to Middle Eastern cuisine. Istanbul, lying at the crossroads, offers a culinary experience that melds these diverse traditions into its own unique flavour profile.
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Mezzes
Essential to any Turkish meal, mezes vary across regions. In Istanbul, expect a mix of Mediterranean influences with dishes like seasoned olives, cheese, stuffed vine leaves, and grilled eggplant, alongside more eastern flavors like spicy ezme and muhammara.
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Kebabs
Istanbul’s kebabs offer a glimpse into the country’s regional diversity. From the classic döner to the spicy Adana kebab from the southeast and the savoury Iskender kebab from the northwest, each has its unique preparation and flavour profile.
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Seafood
The city’s proximity to both the Marmara and Black Seas means an abundance of fresh seafood. Local favourites include balık ekmek (fish sandwich), grilled mackerel, and an array of fish mezes.
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Olive Oil Dishes ("Zeytinyağlılar"): Vegan-Friendly Delights
Delve into the world of “zeytinyağlılar,” Turkish dishes that celebrate the essence of fresh vegetables, legumes and beans cooked in fragrant olive oil. These vegetarian delights are often enjoyed cold and are a testament to the Mediterranean influence on Turkish cuisine. What makes “zeytinyağlılar” particularly appealing is their incredible variety, making them an excellent choice for vegans and vegetarians seeking diverse and flavourful options.
From stuffed vine leaves (“dolma”) to artichoke hearts filled with a delightful mixture of herbs and rice (“enginar dolması”), and from eggplant dishes like “imam bayıldı” to the vibrant flavors of “taze fasulye” (green beans) and “barbunya pilaki” (cranberry beans), the world of “zeytinyağlılar” is boundless.
These dishes are not only a testament to Turkish culinary creativity but also a reflection of the country’s abundant produce. Whether you’re looking for a light appetizer or a hearty main course, “zeytinyağlılar” offers a wide array of vegan-friendly choices that showcase the vibrant Mediterranean flavours and the versatility of olive oil in Turkish cuisine.
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Sweets and Desserts
Turkish sweets are a blend of Central Asian, Middle Eastern, and Balkan influences. Baklava, with its layers of filo, nuts, and syrup, and the stretchy, cheese-filled dessert künefe are popular choices. Turkish delight and a variety of halva are other must-tries.
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Beverages
Turkish cuisine is not only renowned for its delectable dishes but also for its diverse range of beverages, each offering a unique flavour profile and cultural significance. Here are some of the notable Turkish beverages you can savour during your culinary journey:
Turkish Tea: Served in elegant tulip-shaped glasses, Turkish tea is a daily staple in the country. Brewed to perfection, it offers a mild yet aromatic flavor, making it an ideal companion to various meals and desserts.
Turkish Coffee: For those seeking a strong and rich brew, Turkish coffee is the answer. Ground to a fine powder, it’s traditionally prepared in a special pot called a “cezve” and served in small cups. Don’t forget to read your fortune on the coffee grounds after sipping!
Ayran: This refreshing and slightly tangy drink is made from yogurt, water, and a pinch of salt. It’s the perfect choice to balance out the flavours of savoury dishes and is particularly enjoyable during hot summer days. Yoghurt, a word of Turkish origin, plays a central role in many Turkish culinary creations, including ayran.
Raki: For those looking for an alcoholic option, raki is the go-to spirit. This anise-flavoured drink is traditionally enjoyed alongside mezes in the lively setting of a Meyhane.
Boza: Boza is a unique and slightly thick fermented drink made from bulgur and sugar. It has a tangy, slightly sweet taste and is often garnished with roasted chickpeas. Boza is a cherished winter beverage in Turkey.
Şerbet (Sherbet): Şerbet is a sweet, fruit-based syrup often mixed with water to create a refreshing and fruity drink. It’s a popular choice during the hot summer months and comes in a variety of flavours.
Şalgam (Shalgam): Şalgam is a unique and spicy fermented beverage made from purple carrots, turnips, and spices. It has a bold, distinctive taste and is commonly enjoyed alongside kebabs and grilled meats.
Where to Find Traditional Dishes
Istanbul’s diverse neighbourhoods and dining establishments offer a rich array of traditional Turkish dishes. Here’s a guide to help you navigate where to find these culinary delights:
Neighborhood Guide for Food
- Kadıköy: A culinary gem on the Asian side, renowned for its vibrant food market and diverse street food options. This area is a paradise for those who love exploring everything from traditional Turkish bakeries and pastry shops to trendy cafes and eateries.
- Beşiktaş and Bosphorus Cafes: For a delightful Turkish breakfast experience, Beşiktaş is ideal with its array of cozy eateries and breakfast spots serving a hearty spread of cheeses, olives, bread, and more. Additionally, along the Bosphorus, especially in areas like Arnavutköy and Bebek, you’ll find cafes that offer serene settings perfect for enjoying a traditional Turkish breakfast with a scenic view of the strait.
- Karaköy: Known for its blend of contemporary cafes and historic bakeries, Karaköy is perfect for those seeking a leisurely brunch or a taste of Istanbul’s finest coffee. The area also hosts a variety of restaurants offering modern takes on Turkish cuisine.
- Galata and Istiklal: Vibrant and diverse, these areas offer a mixture of traditional and international cuisines. Istiklal Avenue is lined with a wide range of dining options, from fast-food joints to upscale restaurants. Galata, known for its historical charm, also hosts quaint cafes and bistros in its narrow streets.
- Historical Pasaj (Arcades): The historic arcades, like Çiçek Pasajı on Istiklal Avenue, offer a unique dining atmosphere with a variety of meyhanes (traditional taverns) and small restaurants serving classic Turkish dishes and mezes.
Street Food Spots
- Eminönü: Here, street vendors offer classic Istanbul street foods like simit (sesame bread rings), balik-ekmek (fish sandwiches), and roasted chestnuts.
- Taksim Square: This bustling area is a hub for a variety of street foods, including doner kebabs, Turkish pizza (lahmacun), and stuffed mussels (midye dolma).
Historical Eateries
- Pandeli Restaurant: Located in the Spice Bazaar, this historic restaurant offers classic Turkish dishes in a setting filled with history and character.
- Haci Abdullah: Known for its traditional Ottoman cuisine, this restaurant has been serving delicious fare since the late 19th century.
Ottoman Cuisine: A Gastronomic Journey into History
Istanbul’s culinary landscape goes beyond its contemporary delights; it also opens doors to the glorious past of the Ottoman Empire. Ottoman cuisine, known for its sophistication and diverse range of dishes, offers a unique gastronomic journey into history. Here’s a glimpse of what to expect from Ottoman cuisine and where to find such exquisite restaurants, including “köşk” dining
- The Ottoman Legacy: Ottoman cuisine is a fusion of culinary traditions from the vast empire that once spanned three continents. It’s characterised by intricate flavours, the use of quality ingredients, and a variety of dishes, ranging from aromatic stews to delectable desserts.
- Signature Dishes: Savour dishes like “mantar yahnisi” (mushroom stew), “hünkar beğendi” (aubergine puree with tender lamb), “dolma-i sultani” (stuffed grape leaves), and “baklava” prepared with meticulous attention to detail.
- Royal Dining Experience: Ottoman cuisine often includes dishes once enjoyed by the sultans and the royal court. Dining at Ottoman restaurants is not just a meal but a regal experience that transports you back in time.
- Historic Settings: Many Ottoman restaurants are housed in historic “köşk” (mansions) and traditional settings, creating an ambiance that complements the rich culinary heritage. The décor often reflects the opulence of the Ottoman era.
- Where to Find Ottoman Cuisine: Istanbul boasts several renowned Ottoman restaurants where you can savour these exquisite dishes. Look for establishments in Sultanahmet, Beyoğlu, and Üsküdar, where the Ottoman legacy is still alive. Additionally, consider dining in historic “köşk” mansions that offer an immersive experience.
Where to Find Ottoman Cuisine
Some notable “köşk” locations for enjoying Ottoman cuisine include:
- Pargalı İbrahim Paşa Köşkü in Fatih
- Nilhan Sultan Köşkü in Üsküdar Pasalimanı
- Çadır Köşkü in Yıldız Park
Council’s BELTUR operations also offer Ottoman kitchen experiences in select “köşk” locations such as:
- Emirgan Korusu Sarı Köşk
- Yıldız Parkı Malta Köşkü
- Üsküdar Küçük Çamlıca
- Paşalimanı
- Gülhane Kandil
Dining in these historic settings adds to the charm of the Ottoman culinary journey, allowing you to immerse yourself in the opulence and flavours of a bygone era.
Types of Turkish Restaurants
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Ocakbaşı: Traditional Grill Restaurants
- Essence of Ocakbaşı: Ocakbaşı restaurants are an integral part of Turkish culinary culture, especially in Istanbul. These establishments are celebrated for their traditional method of grilling meats over a charcoal fire. The term ‘Ocakbaşı’ literally means ‘head of the hearth’, reflecting the central role of the grill in these eateries.
- Ambiance and Experience: Dining at an Ocakbaşı offers not just a meal, but an immersive experience. Many of these restaurants feature an open grill area where diners have the option to sit close to the grill, watching the chefs skillfully cook an array of meats. The warm, inviting atmosphere is often enhanced by the aroma of grilling meats and the lively chatter of patrons.
- Menu Highlights: The focus is primarily on kebabs and other grilled meats, including varieties like lamb chops, chicken skewers, and köfte (Turkish meatballs). These dishes are typically served with sides like fresh salads, grilled vegetables, and traditional Turkish bread.
- Recommended Ocakbaşı Restaurants: In Istanbul, some renowned Ocakbaşı spots include “Beyti” in Florya, known for its high-quality meats and historical significance, and “Adana Ocakbaşı” in Kurtuluş, famous for its authentic Adana kebab and vibrant atmosphere.
- Pairing with Drinks: Meals at an Ocakbaşı are often accompanied by traditional Turkish drinks like ayran or rakı, the latter being a popular anise-flavored spirit that complements the smoky flavors of the grilled meats.
Visiting an Ocakbaşı provides a unique opportunity to delve into the heart of Turkish barbecue culture, where the simplicity of grilled meats meets the richness of Turkish culinary traditions, creating a memorable and authentic dining experience.
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Meyhane: Raki, Balık, Meze
- The Meyhane Experience: Meyhanes hold a special place in Turkish dining culture. These tavern-style restaurants offer a delightful combination of mezes (small dishes), fresh fish, and seafood, all complemented by raki, a traditional anise-flavored spirit. However, a visit to a Meyhane is not just about the food and drinks; it’s an entire social experience.
- Mezes Galore: Mezes take center stage at Meyhanes, with an array of small dishes that can include everything from stuffed vine leaves and eggplant salads to creamy hummus and grilled octopus. These appetizers are perfect for sharing among friends and family, fostering a convivial atmosphere.
- Fresh Fish and Seafood: In addition to mezes, Meyhanes often feature a selection of fresh fish and seafood. Grilled or fried, these dishes showcase the coastal influences of Turkish cuisine, making them a must-try for seafood enthusiasts.
- Raki Ritual: Raki, the iconic Turkish anise-flavored spirit, is a key component of the Meyhane experience. Often served in long glasses, it’s customary to dilute raki with water, turning it from clear to milky white. The process of adding water to raki, known as “louche,” is as much a part of the ritual as the drink itself.
- Social Gathering: Meyhanes are cherished for their social ambiance. It’s common to see groups of friends or family gathered around a table, sharing mezes, sipping raki, and engaging in lively conversations. The environment encourages relaxation and leisure.
- Live Music and Entertainment: Some Meyhanes enhance the experience with live traditional music, creating a lively and festive atmosphere. It’s not uncommon for patrons to join in singing and dancing, especially during celebrations and special occasions.
- Recommended Meyhanes: In Istanbul, you can find Meyhanes like “Münferit” in Karaköy, known for its modern take on mezes and a chic atmosphere, and “Meyhane Köy” in Beyoğlu, offering a traditional Meyhane experience with live music and a diverse meze selection.
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Kebabçı (Kebab Houses)
- Authentic Turkish Kebabs: Kebabçıs specialize in various types of kebabs, a staple in Turkish cuisine. These establishments range from simple eateries to more upscale restaurants.
- Variety and Flavor: Visitors can indulge in a range of kebabs, from the spicy Adana and Urfa kebabs to the succulent şiş kebab and the famous döner kebab. Each kebab has its unique blend of spices and preparation methods, offering a different taste experience.
- Experience the Ambiance: Dining at a kebabçı is not just about the food; it’s also about experiencing the lively and often casual atmosphere. Many kebabçıs feature open grills, allowing diners to watch their meals being expertly cooked.
- Recommended Kebabçıs: For a truly authentic experience, seek out local favorites such as “Dürümzade” in Beyoğlu, known for its wrap-style kebabs, or “Kebapçı Mahmut” in Fatih, famous for its traditional wood-fired kebabs.
- Pair with Sides: Kebabs are usually served with a variety of sides such as fresh salad, grilled vegetables, and traditional Turkish bread, making for a fulfilling meal.
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Pideci (Turkish Pizza/Pide Restaurants)
- Turkish Pide: Often referred to as Turkish pizza, pide is a popular dish consisting of an oval-shaped flatbread topped with various ingredients baked to perfection. It’s a staple in Turkish cuisine, with each region offering its unique twist.
- Variety of Toppings: Pide can be topped with a range of ingredients, including seasoned minced meat, cheese, eggs, vegetables, and sometimes even Turkish sausage (sucuk) or pastırma (cured beef). The diversity of toppings means there’s a pide for every palate.
- Dining Experience: Pidecis range from casual, quick-service eateries to more traditional sit-down restaurants. They often have an open kitchen where you can watch your pide being prepared and baked in a stone oven.
- Recommended Pidecis: For an authentic pide experience in Istanbul, try places like “Karadeniz Pide ve Döner Salonu” in Beşiktaş, known for its wide variety of pide, or “Bafra Pidecisi” in Kadıköy, famous for its Black Sea-style pide.
- Serving Style: Pide is typically served sliced, making it easy to eat by hand. It’s commonly accompanied by a side of pickles and a cold ayran (a yogurt-based drink) to balance the flavours.
A visit to a pideci is a delightful culinary adventure, offering a taste of a simple yet delicious Turkish dish that perfectly captures the essence of local flavours and dining traditions.
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Kofteci (Meatball/Köfte Restaurants)
Turkish Köfte
- What is Köfte: Köfte, essentially Turkish meatballs, is a fundamental component of Turkish cuisine. Traditionally made from ground meat (typically beef or lamb), these meatballs are expertly seasoned with a blend of spices, onions, and occasionally incorporate breadcrumbs or bulgur. Köfte’s versatility is evident in its many regional variations across Turkey, each with its unique twist on the basic recipe.
- Global Influence: Interestingly, the popularity and influence of köfte have reached global scales. A notable acknowledgment of this influence is IKEA’s admission that their world-famous Swedish meatballs are inspired by traditional Turkish köfte. This recognition highlights köfte’s integral role not only in Turkish but also in global culinary traditions.
Dining at a Kofteci
- Experience and Menu: Koftecis, specializing in köfte, vary from casual street-side vendors to more formal restaurants. They typically focus on köfte, served in different forms such as with rice or bulgur pilaf, in a sandwich (köfte ekmek), or alongside grilled vegetables and yogurt.
- Recommended Koftecis: For an authentic taste in Istanbul, “Sultanahmet Köftecisi” offers traditional flavors, while “Tarihi Kırkpınar Lokantası” in Edirnekapı is celebrated for its succulent köfte in a historical setting.
- Accompaniments: Köfte is commonly enjoyed with sides like piyaz (white bean salad), various pickles, and beverages such as ayran or Turkish tea.
Cultural Context
- More Than Just Street Food: Beyond its popularity as street food, köfte holds a special place in family dining and festive occasions, underlining its cultural significance in Turkish society.
- Insider Tips: As locals often have their preferred kofteci, seeking their recommendations can lead you to some of the best and lesser-known spots.
Visiting a kofteci is more than just a meal; it’s an experience that connects you with a key aspect of Turkish culinary heritage, offering a simple yet profound taste of the nation’s rich gastronomic culture.
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Doner Kebab and Iskender
Exploring Istanbul’s food scene would be incomplete without delving into the world of Doner and Iskender, two iconic dishes that are integral to Turkish cuisine.
Doner Kebab
- What is Doner: Doner kebab, known globally, is a Turkish culinary classic. It consists of meat (usually beef, lamb, or chicken) that is seasoned, stacked in a cone-like shape, and slowly rotated and cooked on a vertical rotisserie. Thin slices are shaved off and served in various ways.
- Serving Styles: While often seen in sandwich form wrapped in flatbread with vegetables and sauces, doner can also be served on a plate with accompaniments like rice, potatoes, and salad.
- Where to Find: Doner kebab can be found in many eateries throughout Istanbul, from small street-side vendors to sit-down restaurants. Some renowned places for doner include “Kasap Osman” and “Donerci Sahin Usta.”
Iskender Kebab
- Origin and Description: Originating from Bursa, Iskender kebab is a variation of doner. Named after its creator, Iskender Efendi, this dish features thinly sliced doner meat laid over pieces of pita bread, generously topped with hot tomato sauce and melted sheep’s butter, and often served with a side of yogurt.
- Culinary Experience: Iskender offers a unique and indulgent experience, combining the flavors of the meat with the richness of butter and the tanginess of tomato sauce.
- Best Places to Try: For authentic Iskender kebab in Istanbul, restaurants like “Uludağ Kebabcısı” and “Kebapçı Iskender” are highly recommended.
Both doner and Iskender are more than just meals; they are experiences that encapsulate the essence of Turkish culinary art. Rich in flavor and history, these dishes offer a glimpse into the country’s gastronomic traditions and are a must-try for anyone visiting Istanbul.
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Çorbacı (Soup Shops): Savouring Turkish Soups
- The Art of Soup-Making: In Turkish cuisine, soup holds a special place, often regarded as a comforting and nourishing dish. Çorbacı restaurants, or soup houses, specialise in crafting a wide variety of flavoursome soups that cater to diverse tastes and preferences.
- Soup Selection: At a Çorbacı, you’ll find an extensive menu featuring an array of soups made from fresh ingredients, legumes, grains, vegetables, and meats. From classic lentil and chickpea soups to heartier options like tripe soup or lamb stew, there’s a soup for every palate.
- Customisation: What sets Çorbacı apart is the ability to customise your soup to suit your preferences. You can add ingredients like garlic, red pepper flakes, and lemon juice to tailor the flavour to your liking.
- Healthy Breakfast Option: Turks often choose to start their day with a warm bowl of soup, a tradition rooted in the belief that it’s a healthy and nourishing way to begin the morning.
- Post-Night Out Tradition: Another cherished tradition is visiting a Çorbacı after a night out, especially if alcohol has been consumed. Soup is considered a soothing remedy for post-party fatigue, and it’s a communal experience enjoyed by many.
- Sides and Accompaniments: Soups are often accompanied by sides like fresh bread, pickles, and even a dollop of yogurt, enhancing the overall dining experience.
- Cultural Tradition: Soup has a deep-rooted cultural significance in Turkey, reflecting the importance of hospitality and nourishing guests.
- Community Gathering: Çorbacı restaurants are popular spots for locals to gather, chat, and enjoy a warm bowl of soup together. The communal atmosphere adds to the charm of these establishments.
- Notable Çorbacı: Istanbul boasts several renowned Çorbacı restaurants, including “Hacı Abdullah” in Beyoğlu, celebrated for its rich flavours and historical legacy.
A visit to a Çorbacı offers a delightful journey into the heart of Turkish comfort food, where the art of soup-making meets the warmth of shared meals, cultural tradition, and even a healthy start to the day.
Cultural Insights to Turkish Food
Istanbul’s culinary heritage extends far beyond the delicious flavours and recipes; it’s deeply intertwined with Turkish culture and traditions. Understanding the cultural significance of food and dining is essential for a holistic experience in the city. Here’s a glimpse into Turkish traditions related to food and the role of food in Turkish society and hospitality:
- The Art of Hospitality: Turkish hospitality, known as “misafirperverlik,” is legendary. Guests are considered a gift from God, and hosts go to great lengths to make them feel welcome. This warm and generous hospitality is reflected in the sharing of meals, where guests are often offered a seat at the family table.
- Family and Community: In Turkish culture, food is a communal affair that brings families and communities together. Large gatherings and celebrations are often centred around elaborate feasts, where everyone contributes to the preparation and enjoyment of the meal.
- Traditional Dining Rituals: Turkish meals often begin with “baslangiclar” (appetizers/starters), followed by the main course and dessert. It’s customary to start and end the meal with “lokum” (Turkish delight) and a cup of Turkish coffee or tea.
- Ramadan and Festivals: During the holy month of Ramadan, Muslims fast from sunrise to sunset. The evening meal, called “iftar,” is a special time for families to come together and break their fast. Festivals like Eid al-Fitr are marked by feasting and the exchange of traditional sweets.
- Coffee Culture: Turkish coffee is not just a beverage; it’s a ritual. The process of brewing and serving Turkish coffee is steeped in tradition and symbolism. Reading the coffee grounds in the cup is a common practice known as “fal” (fortune-telling).
- Street Food Culture: Istanbul’s vibrant street food culture reflects the city’s dynamic spirit. From “simit” (sesame seed bread rings) to “balık ekmek” (fish sandwiches), street vendors play a vital role in providing quick and tasty snacks to locals and visitors alike.
- Ceremonial Dining: Special occasions and ceremonies often involve elaborate dining rituals. Weddings, engagements, and other milestones are celebrated with grand feasts, where traditional dishes take centre stage.
Understanding these cultural insights not only enhances your culinary journey in Istanbul but also allows you to appreciate the deeper meaning of food in Turkish society. It’s a reminder that meals in Istanbul are more than just sustenance; they are a celebration of culture, tradition, and the art of coming together over a shared table.
Additional Resources
Exploring Istanbul’s culinary delights can be a delightful journey on its own. If you’re looking to delve deeper into Turkish cuisine or plan your culinary adventures in Istanbul, here are some valuable resources:
Official Websites:
- Istanbul Tourism Official Website: The official tourism website of Istanbul offers insights into the city’s culinary scene, including recommendations for restaurants and local food experiences.
- Turkish Ministry of Culture and Tourism: The official website provides information on Turkish culture, including cuisine, traditional dishes, and dining customs.
- Istanbul Culinary Institute: Learn more about Turkish culinary traditions, take cooking classes, and explore Istanbul’s culinary culture.
Books:
- “Istanbul and Beyond: Exploring the Diverse Cuisines of Turkey” by Robyn Eckhardt: This book offers a culinary journey through Turkey, including Istanbul, with in-depth insights into regional dishes and recipes.
- “The Sultan’s Kitchen: A Turkish Cookbook” by Özcan Ozan: Explore a collection of traditional Turkish recipes and discover the rich culinary heritage of the country.
- “Istanbul Eats: Exploring the Culinary Backstreets” by Ansel Mullins and Yigal Schleifer: This guidebook takes you on a culinary tour of Istanbul’s lesser-known food spots and hidden gems.
Documentaries:
- “Anthony Bourdain: No Reservations – Istanbul” (Season 6, Episode 10): Anthony Bourdain explores the diverse food culture of Istanbul, offering a unique perspective on the city’s culinary scene.
- “Street Food: Istanbul” (Netflix): This documentary series showcases the stories and flavors of street food vendors in Istanbul, providing insights into the city’s street food culture.